Hugsies Blog!

December 13, 2014

My Xbox 360 is alive! No thanks to Microsoft! :p

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 12:31 am

My old original eight year old 360 power supply brick died, and I’ve been having a hard time finding a replacement for it. I tried to order one off Amazon but it turned out to be a shitty Chinese knockoff that over heated and burned it self out after 4 hours of use. I was able to get my money back since Amazon has a painless return policy.

Then I ordered one directly from Microsoft’s support web page, but it’s been two weeks and they still haven’t shipped me a new power supply, nor informed me about what’s taking so long. They did state that a new unit will ship within 10 working days (i.e. 2 full weeks) and this Friday marks the 10th working day. Microsoft took my money immediately after I ordered it, but i have nothing to show for it. I guess i’ll have to call Microsoft/Xbox support directly and find out what the deal is. It’s likely they don’t have any of the old sliver-tip 203w power bricks in stock since they are SO OLD.  Hell I’ve been so loyal to Xbox they should just send me a NEW 360.

I had been wondering if a PC PSU can be used to power a Xbox 360. The pin outs for a 360 power is simply 12v DC, ground, 5v standby, and a power on signal. Which is EXACTLY what a PC PSU has. I read up on many websites where they simply took the power connector and connected it to a 4pin molex power connector which supplies 5v, 12v and ground.

So by simply wiring all three 12v wires to the one on the molex (yellow wires), all the ground wires to the two ground wires on the molex (black wires), and the 5v to the 5v standby (Red wires), and bingo, you have a power supply cable that works as long as you have a PSU with significant wattage. Which even the oldest PSUs will supply minimum of 250watts which is plenty for the older Xenon 360’s that require 203 watts. All newer 360s require much less wattage, but you can use old 203 watt power bricks with all 360s, even with the “S” and “E” versions of the 360 with the proper power adapter for it.

The problem is that you have to short the power-on to ground and have the PSU on before the 360. Ideally you’ll want to rig the 360’s v5-standby and Power-ON wires to the matching wires on the PSU’s 20pin motherboard power connector. This way when you power the 360, the PSU will also fire up and when you shut down the 360, do does the PSU.

Unfortunately I don’t have a spare PSU that I can use for my 360. The spare one I do have is faulty, and doesn’t work. However my primary PC I use does have an overpowered 750w PSU which is WAY too much for the hardware I have in my PC. So I re-wired my 360 power cable to a 4pin molex as i described earlier, pulled out a molex power from my PC which i don’t even use, and bingo my 360 is alive again! \o/

So my beastly PSU is now running both my PC and my 360, which is not exactly ideal. I have noticed that the yellow 12v wire from my PSU does get hot, since it’s a single 12v rail that’s powering three 12v rails inside my 360. That’s a lot of current for a single wire to feed three 12v wires.  Ideally I should connect at least 3 different 12volt rails from the PSU to the 360 power connector to help this issue.

Oddly inside the 360 power cable, along with a red and blue (5v SB and power-on) there are 3 yellow, and 3 black. But there’s also a set of thinner yellow and black wires. That’s more wires than there are pins in the 360 connector, even when including the ground shield. Right now i have all 4 yellow wires connected to the single yellow 12v rail, and the same with all the black wires, but at least molex connectors have two black ground wires.

UPDATE (week later): Microsoft finally did send me a new power supply brick, it lacks a ground connection, even though the wall plug has a ground, but there is no 3rd ground prong on the end that connects to the power brick. But at least my 360 is running on it’s own. Oddly enough 2 weeks later ANOTHER power brick was delivered unexpectedly. Geez Microsoft get your shit together.

Advertisements

November 18, 2014

Satechi Edge Gaming mouse review

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 10:00 am

The mouse it self is quite good looking, and it’s not over riddled with a mass of buttons like some gaming mice have now. The mouse wheel and the logo on the front are illuminated. The font logo slowly dims and becomes brighter as if it’s “breathing.”  Also the color changes from Green, Blue, Red, and Purple (in that order) which indicate which DPI setting it’s at. But no yellow?

The mouse is smaller than I’m used too and it’s a lot more shallower in my hand and lighter than my old Logitech Performance MX which took some some getting used to. It also comes with a low profile USB dongle that’s very tiny, exactly like the kind used with Logitech mice and keyboards. However it did not come with an extension USB cable so you can place the wireless dongle closer to your mouse if your PC is located far from your desktop or behind something that would block the signal.

Inside the nice retail packaging box was the mouse it self, the small tiny USB dongle, and a set of two generic AA batteries, a small manual, BUT NO CD with drivers nor software. I checked the Satechi website to see if they had drivers or some sort of software bundle, but there was nothing. No software to customize the mouse at all. Very unheard of to have a “gaming” mouse with no customization options.

The only way to “customize” it is with two small switching on the underside of the mouse, where you can change the mouses polling rate, and “mode,” Often I can’t tell what “mode” this mouse is is, it’s either in a normal “gaming” mode or a useless “video” mode. If it’s in the wrong mode, the forward and back buttons by your thumb while gaming (FPS) will make your character turn slowly left or right as if I was pressing the left/right keys on my keyboard.  This “Video Mode” is intended for multi-media use for music and videos, however I don’t know what players supports this mouse functionality. after all it COMES WITH NO SOFTWARE. So just leave the mouse in “gaming” mode so it functions as you’d expect too, even if you’re not a gamer.

I can see any difference when using 250hz or 500hz polling rate. Every time I lift the mouse to change the switches I’m blinded by that super bright LED. The barely-readable labels for the switches that show “250” and “500” also has a “treble clef” symbol which is supposed to be “video” mode. Isn’t a treble clef a musical reference?

The little auto-double click button is useless, what lazy gamer needs that? If it’s a gamer mouse it would be more useful it if was a “turbo” button that rapid-fires left-clicks while you hold it down, not a silly double click.

The mouse wheel doesn’t support left-right scrolling. Even though the mouse wheel moves left and right, and FEELS like it’s tiling left and right, it’s really not doing anything, and at most you’re clicking the middle mouse button. Middle mouse button clicking is FAR TOO EASY to accidentally click when you’re just trying to flick the scroll wheel up or down. A lot oft he time I find my self in smooth-scroll mode since I accidentally clicked the middle mouse button wheel while on a webpage.

Middle mouse button clicking in some apps (Chrome, and Thunderbird) opens new tab of whatever it is you middle-clicked but the tabs appear UNDER whatever the mouse is under, and you don’t really notice them coming up. Since it’s so easy to accidentally hit middle-mouse when trying to scroll, I end up with loads of tabs I didn’t want to open.

When the mouse goes dormant after no use, moving the mouse doesn’t reactivate it like most mice do. You have to click a mouse button for it to wake up again. Which might activate something on screen since the mouse click is sent to the PC, and depending where your mouse cursor is (if it’s visible) it may have undesirable effects.

For a mouse with two AA batteries, it sure is light. The batteries that come with it are typical cheapo non-brand you’ve never heard of, and are light weight as if they are dead batteries. If you install a set of real proper batteries like Duracell, or Energizer, it does give it more heft than the batteries it comes with. However it is nice it comes with batteries.

The booklet is beautiful, and  well made with thick card stock, but it’s only 4 pages. It’s like they spent too much money on this little booklet when they could have made this mouse a little better. There is a noticeable error in the booklet’s illustration showing you where everything is. The part labeled [7] is the button that toggles though the four different DPI setting for gaming mode. In “video” mode it toggles between minimizing all your windows. At the bottom shows the corresponding number for the part on the illustration. For some reason button [7] is listed twice, where it’s supposed to be describing what buttons [5] and [6] do.

The instructions indicate that before installing the batteries you need to pull out the mini USB dongle that you connect to your PC so you can use the mouse. The way my mouse was package the USB dongle was already out of the mouse and in it’s special little spot molded in plastic under the mouse next to the batteries. I guess this will be useful if you’re taking the mouse with on a trip and stash the dongle where you won’t lose it, However the dongle extremely tiny like the ones for Logtitech,  It’s meant to be just left on your PC or laptop since it’s so small it won’t break off or fall out for sticking out.  I would rather have a set of weights I could put in that spot inside the mouse to beef it up.

Changing DPI on the fly is useful for a gamer, but 4 different settings? A gamer only needs two. One for normal movement and looking around, and a lowered DPI for zooming and sniping. But this has 4 different DPI settings that you can NOT customize (since there is no software) and you have to cycle though all of them to get back to the DPI setting you want when want to change back. That takes way too much time when you’re gaming.

One thing I noticed when I first plugged it in, the mouse didn’t feel right. This was likely due to having just disconnecting my old mouse and putting this new one in and didn’t restart my PC. After rebooting the PC the mouse felt much more “normal” to me.

When this product was first announced last October, it was toted as a cheap $20 “gamer” mouse, but it actually sells on Amazon and Satechi’s website for $30 (which is now sold out). Honestly the mouse is really worth $20. The extra $10 must be for it’s over done heavy card stock glossy manual and the retail box.  If you can find this mouse with out it’s useless packaging and manuals, it is worth $20.

[Update: 11/21/14]
After using it for a few weeks the batteries that were included started to die off. The mouse would stop moving the mouse cursor on screen, but the scroll wheel and mouse buttons still worked. For a mouse that totes a TWO YEAR battery life, turns out to only last Two weeks. I just swapped the batteries out for a new set and lets see if these actually last, but if I have to keep swapping battles out every 2-3 weeks, while they advertise 2 or 3 year battery life will really hurt their image.

[Update 12/6/14]
I’ve had this mouse for a couple months now, and the claim for 36 month battery life is a complete lie. it’s only 3 years on STANDBY time which is entirely meaningless since that is the typical lifespan if any alkaline battery that’s not in use. Whats worse is this mouse gives you no indication on how much power is left in the batteries, nor a warning when they are about to die. When it does die the mouse just behaves weird. The mouse stops tracking but the scroll wheel and mouse buttons keep working. It doesn’t come with a charge cable if you’re using rechargeable batteries, in fact it’s unable to charge batteries, so if you wanna use rechargeables, you’ll need a separate charger.

So how many lies has Satechi claimed about this mouse now so far?

$20 MSRP? lie
36 month battery life? lie
250 and 500hz polling rate? cant tell the difference.
No software to configure the mouse
no programability
No custom colors
No Drivers
No USB extension cable to re-locate the wireless dongle
No battery life indicator
No warning when the batteries are about to die
No battery charging capabilities

Yet the put extra money and effort into it’s packaging and it’s useless 4 page manual with has a few typos in it which could had been used to make this mouse better.

I’m extremely disappointed with this mouse. This would be a better mouse if it was just a wired mouse since it consumes battery power in less than a week, making the batteries that come with it completely useless.

Asus STRIX GTX 980 \o/

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 8:33 am

It’s finally here!

As a long long time user of Second Life, if you’re still using a video card with only 1GB (or less) you seriously need to upgrade to something with more. When I pre-ordered my GTX 980, I installed bench-marking software and monitoring tools that helped me better understand the hardware I have before my GTX 980 arrived.

Using GPU-Z and running one instance of Firestorm on SL, the viewer and the OS overhead was using about 800mb of my  old video card’s VRAM, out it’s 1GB of VDDR5 memory. So if you were using an older 512mb video card, your performance was already suffering just using one instance of an SL viewer.  I then realized that this is why when I run a second instance of Firestorm, that I had to minimize one of them (or cam out into the void so nothing renders) in order for the viewer that has focus not to bog down it’s frame rates.

When my new video card arrived, it has 4GB of VDDR5 RAM, and I quickly fired up FOUR instance of Firestorm, logged in four ALTs and none of the viewers had any framerate issues (except for when it doesn’t have focus FPS drops, which is meant to do that) but there was no drop in framerate with the viewer that currently was in focus. I could alt-tab to another viewer and no loss in quality. AND i had everything set to ULTRA settings.

So while getting a GTX 980 is overkill for Second Life, getting a video card with 2GB VRAM or more IS advisable if you’re using multiple alts on SL at the same time. So something like a GTX 750 ti which has 2GB of VRAM ($160) would be useful over any old videocard that only has 1GB.

November 16, 2014

The elusive ASUS STRIX GTX 980 and Amazon

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 3:28 am

Amazon never had any ASUS STRIX GTX 980 in stock since mid October. They started pre-orders around October 30th, which is when I made my pre-order. Nvidia started a new free game promotion when you purchase a GTX 980 card the following week. Amazon is participating in this promotion.

Since the promotion started after I made my pre-order, I asked customer service if my order will qualify for this promotion, since I technically hadn’t bought it yet since it hasn’t shipped yet, nor was I billed yet. They said it wasn’t because I made the order (a PRE order) on the 30th outside of the promotional period. I was TOLD by Amazon customer support I had the option to cancel my original order and re-pre-order it again to qualify for the free game. They offered free 1 day shipping as compensation. So reluctantly that’s what I did on November 8th.

Now a week passes and my video card has finally shipped! (yay!) Only after waiting over TWO WEEKS since my original October 30th PRE-order, but I didn’t get my free game code. I asked Amazon customer support AGAIN about this and they simply said it wasn’t apart of the promotion simply because the item listed on amazon isn’t marked with that promotion. WTF?

This is bullshit. Amazon is participating in this promotion, I bought the video card FROM amazon, BILLED by amazon on November 13th. Nvidia lists Amazon as one of the vendors participating in this promotion. I almost bought an eVGA GTX 980 card because they were in stock, and I was getting tired of waiting. Granted the STRIX GTX 980 didn’t display this promotion in it’s item listing but that’s ONLY because they never had this video card in stock for the past four weeks, long BEFORE the promotion started. You could only pre-order it. Even now it’s still NOT not in stock, but now you CAN’T pre-order it anymore. All Amazon shows now is a 3rd party store selling the card WAY OVER PRICED.

The only compensation they gave me was free 1 day shipping, but it shipped on a FRIDAY I’m not going to get it till MONDAY. They offered this only if I canceled and re-ordered it so i could get my free game, but that was all for nothing.. What a waste of fucking time dealing with Amazon customer support for something I clearly qualify for but I do not due to some stupid technicality. Even my “compensation” wasn’t even worth the time and hassle.

TOTAL BULLSHIT AMAZON! I think i’ll stick with NewEgg when comes to PC hardware purchases, but keep buying mundane commodities like toilet paper from Amazon.

November 5, 2014

Open Letter to Rockstar Games, re: GTA V on NextGen and PC

Filed under: Gaming!, GTA, GTAonline, GTAV, GTAV Online, Nextgen, PC — Hugsie @ 2:08 pm

After transferring my online characters from last-gen to nextgen, will my last-gen characters be deleted, or will they remain and be playable?

Can I still access my bank balance on lastgen after transferring to nextgen, and still have a common bank account across both platforms?

Does transferring my characters apply to BOTH my characters I have, or can I choose just one of them?

When ever heists are released, will it be available on all platforms, including PS3/360?

Will there be any anti-cheating precautions used on GTA Online PC, due to the nature of a PC being highly modifiable? If so which one will it be, or will it be something proprietary made by Rockstar?

What are the minimum and recommended PC hardware specification for GTA V/Online for the PC, including minimum/recommended internet speeds for online play.

Will the other three character slots be unlocked soon?

Will Social Club support any of the new functions PS4/XB1 (and PC) have for video streaming and capturing clips, rather than just snapmatic screenshots?

Can I play GTA V/Online on two different PCs? (not at the same time of course)

What media format will GTA V be on for PC, and how many discs? Is it possible to buy the game on a USB drive? Maybe on that cool gold bar USB thumb drive? That would be sick! 🙂

Any idea how large the install of GTA V (with all updated applied) will be for PC?

October 5, 2014

Jonesing for an ASUS STRIX GTX 980

Filed under: Gaming! — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 5:30 am

Last month Nvidia released the new 900 Maxwell series of GPUs  Asus also released their new non-reference designs of the 900 series called STRIX 980 and 970s. These video cards sold out faster than anything since the GeForce 8800 GTs back last decade. These cards are so revolutionary that they actually have “less” under the hood vs the 780 ti cards, yet the performance is identical.

The GeForce GTX 980 reference cards have lower CUDA core count, 256bit memory bandwidth (vs 384bits), lower clock speeds, and lower thermal rating (TDP) than the GTX 780 ti. It’s performance is on par with the 780ti but those cards cost $200 more than the GTX 980 reference cards. Nvidia has truly optimized and refined what their CUDA cores can do since the Kepler series.

Now if you consider what ASUS has done with their version called Strix, a non-reference design, then you’re dealing with an overclocked video card, with a better and quieter HSF assembly and high end power regulation to extend the lifespan of the card when it goes into overclocked modes, and better performance over the 780ti.

The only card faster than the GTX 980 are Kepler-based TITANS which simply have large CUDA core count, but that costs upwards of $1000 which is ridiculous. Imagine what a TITAN version of the Maxwell GPUs could do?

There is no reason why I would want a last-gen GTX 780 when it performs slower than the GTX 980, and performs identical to the GTX 780 ti while the GTX 980 is much cheaper. The GTX 980 has less but does more with what it has compared to the GTX 780 ti, AND runs cooler and requires less power, so you don’t need a massive 1000watt PSU to use it.

I’m hoping to order one by sometime before Halloween, assuming I can get the money together in time when they become available again since they sold out so fast some vendors have hundreds of these cards on back order. I may have to wait longer even after the next batch of STRIX 980s ship out to stores. The  video card I have now is a GeForce 550 ti, which is really showing it’s age now.

August 6, 2014

Ranking up in GTA online

Filed under: GTAV Online, Xbox 360 — Tags: , , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 6:41 pm

These are legitimate ways to rank up in GTA online!
No hacks, no glitches, no modded lobbies involved.

I’ve been able to rank TWO characters to level 200 using these methods.

Grinding on Rooftop Rumble with hard difficulty SOLO                                              

You’ll need:

  1. Pegassi Zentorno
  2. Micro SMG
  3. Any type of MG or assault rifle (I like special carbine)
  4. Sticky bombs or Grenades (optional)

Approach the parking garage from the south side (from the tracks under the overpass of the freeway).

The Zentorno has a bullet proof back end. Drive backwards towards the garage and keep the back end of your Zentorno towards the enemy, using it as a shield.
If you can get armor upgrades for your Zentorno, this will help.

Use your Micro MSG (or AP Pistol) and shoot down all the “professionals” that you see. More will drive up along your right, DO NOT turn to look at that approaching car, or the “professionals” at the garage will approach your car and take you down. That car will eventually turn left and be in your line of sight so you can keep shooting at all the “professionals” and keeping them away from your car.

Once you’ve killed the “professionals” on that side of the parking garage, keep backing in your Zentorno into the garage killing everyone inside. Use sticky or Grenades to blow up everyhing as you continue to use the back side of your Zentorno as a shield

Always keep and eye on the mini-map on the bottom left of your screen in case any of the “professionals” creep up around and take them out before they can shoot you.

Once everyone is dead inside the parking garage drive out into the alleyway. Two vehicles will spawn about one block west from your location heading towards you. One of them will drive into the alleyway you are in.  Toss a sticky bomb in the alleyway and detonate it as the enemy vehicle drives near it, and then drive off into the nearby intersection where that enemy car came from.

You should ignore the other vehicle that has pulled up at the other side of the parking garage because at this point the NPC with the package you need to complete the job is about too spawn.

He will spawn near the intersection you should already be at. He may drive north, or west, but usually he heads east over the bridge; go after him!

Equip your Micro SMG aim for the drivers head though the rear window of his car. If you’re accurate enough you can take him out quickly. Pickup the document and make your way to Martin to finish the job.
Special note: DO NOT USE the AP Pistol when killing the driver as you may blow up the vehicle, destroy the document and thus fail the mission.

Optionally once you have the document, you can drive back to the parking garage and kill those last  remaining “professionals” that pulled up earlier that you had ignored. It’s and extra 100RP, and some times if you don’t take care of them they may chase after you while you’re driving to Martin’s house, but that rarely occurs unless you’re driving a slow car.

Earn 200 RP every 70 seconds, AFK at the Car Impound                                                                    

Head over to the car impound. Make your way around the back side between the tall building, and the impound. There is a small walkway between the back of police building, and the large building next door. Just jump up on what look like metal cabinets, then walk over to the duct work and climb that, then climb the wall onto the roof top where the Heleipad is.

The trick is finding a sweet spot to stand in as the cops tend to move at first.  Some times they WILL see you (and sometimes shoot you) if you’re standing too close to the edge of the rooftop, ot by that door as shown in the video below. I find it better to stand on the corner of the Helipad.

Once you make it up there find a spot and watch the game to see if you start to lose your wanted level, and let that repeat. After you’ve lost your wanted level twice you should be in good shape, if not move your position around that rooftop and you should be able to find a sweet spot.  You’ll likely rank 2-10 times overnight depending on what rank you’re already at.

Slap a rubber band around the right stick, plug in USB play-n-charge in it (or use wired controller) and let it sit there when you go to bed, go to work.. or go have a life.

It may also help to disable controller vibration so it doesn’t make weird noises when you get phone calls in the game.

See this video, thanks to GirlGamingCentral

The best way to leave this when you’re done is to walk over to the other side of the Helipad, and crouch and wait to lose your wanted level. You won’t gain another wanted level as long as you’re on that side of the building. Then walk (west) towards the tall building, jump down to a low rooftop, then from there to the ground, and be on your merry way.

Troll the marines at Fort Zancudo, get a 4-star wanted level and hide for 400 RP                        

Drive out to the north-west side of Fort Zancudo. You can get there by going though the tunnel, as you drive north, and make a right turn at the first street you see.

Drive up and break though the gate. Just as your car drives over the arrow on the ground, you’ll get a 4 star wanted level.

Immedately drive out and make a right turn onto another nearby street. Follow the dirt road and turn left, and pull in front of a small building. There may be NPC workers here on a break but they will not bother you. Stay in this posistion for about a minute and you’ll lose the wanted level, and gain 400RP.

The reason this works is the game still thinks you’re at the Military Base, and the normal police do not hunt you down with helicopters. The military doesn’t use helicopters to go after you, so it’s VERY easy to evade them as long as you stay within that area and out of line of sight of the military. The military can’t exit the large fences that’s keeping you from getting inside, but a FEW do spawn outside and will make there way towards you but they are easy to evade. DO NOT go driving off up the mountain side or back towards the main road as the normal police with helicopters will get on your ass ASAP, and you’re screwed.

See this Video to see where to go, this video also shows it differently than how I explained it, but this will give you a good idea on what to do.

Thanks to Rambo, and DOPEGAMERHD

Here is a list of YouTube channels I watch to keep my self updated on GTA, other than the Rock Star Newswire.

TheDestoryer

GirlGameingCentral

Dynomite Gaming

DopeGamerHD

Dat Saintsfan

Craig98

CVG

Rambo

omgurheadsgone

Olli43

MrGTAVInformer

MessYourself

LispyJimmy

June 18, 2014

GTA online 1.14

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , — Hugsie @ 6:29 am

Still no heists as it has been delayed until further notice, with “nextgen/PC” releases only four short months away.  There really isn’t anything else to say about this, that hasn’t already been said in the past 8 months. So I will not add to the noise about heists.

1.14 introduces another content package called “I’m not a Hispter” which is loaded with hipster-themed stuff. From smart cars, post modern ironic tshirts, and douhebaggery hairstyles. The change log lists all kinds of fixes and changes that either don’t work (for me) or they fixed something in the most bullshit way possible. Let me highlight some and comment on them.

  • Fixed an exploit where players were able to avoid paying insurance and Bad Sport rating increases

This was done simply by setting off sticky bombs left outside while you were indoors.  I used to do this on occasion since it was fun looking out the window of my home blowing people up. I didn’t realize I wasn’t getting a “bad player” rating and not paying any insurance fees.  I just did it since it was fun and seemed VERY “GTA-esque” since you kill the iFruit CEO from the comfort of your living room using a remote bomb in Story Mode (spoilers!)  So rather than fixing the obvious by GIVING the player a bad sports rating and making them pay the insurance fees, they instead just remove (de-spawn) the sticky bombs you planted outside when you go indoors. LAME!

  • When a player dies, they now have a chance to detonate any Sticky Bombs they had placed. They must be detonated as soon as the wasted screen appears or they will be deleted.

This doesn’t work. I don’t know if I’m waiting too long or whatever, but if i mash the left-Dpad the moment I’m “wasted” my stickies do not go off.  Maybe it’s because I’m in a vehicle when I get wasted? Or is it not left Dpad to set them off? Does it only work when you’re killed by a player, or by an npc?

  • Non-personal vehicles will now spawn near the player once they have completed a Mission.

This is a weird one. Every time I finish rooftop rumble but as a dead player, I end up miles away at the north east side of the map, by some country house with a pumpkin garden in the back.  I’m spawned STANDING inside my vehicle, and there’s a gang attack at that house so if I don’t leave soon I get gunned down.

  • Player names are now shown on Celebration Screens.

THIS IS awesome but this should also appear when you’re looking at the large map from the Start menu.

  • Fixed an issue where character stats could increase when using the Friend Spectate option.

Spectating friends was added in the 1.13 update, but this has NEVER appeared when looking at my friends list (in GTA online) and I still don’t see this option in 1.14. Am I looking in the wrong place for this or what?

  • Fixed an exploit where players could launch cars into the air by driving into gates.

This was listed under “exploits” as if doing this is as bad as money glitching, and RP glitching. Rockstar stated some months ago that they won’t be fixing silly glitches like this since it doesn’t effect anyone in a negative way, it doesn’t give the player any advantage, nor does it effect Rockstar monetarily, as money glitching does. I’m really bothered they fixed something so benign as this, and even MORE upset they listed it as an “exploit.”  It’s like Rockstar can’t get anything strait.. they say one thing and months later change it (ahem heists coming out in Spring)

Why didn’t they fix the wall breaches where you can clip your character INSIDE buildings and under bridges and attack and kill everything, including other players, and be virtually immune to cops and other players?

  • Fixed an exploit where players could repeat the same Bounty multiple times.

According to some new “glitches” posted on Youtube, this can still happen. Matter of fact it seems half the things that occur in GTA online R* claims they “fixed” isn’t fixed.

  • Fixed an exploit where NPCs would not react when nearby NPCs were being pistol-whipped.

How was this an exploit? What advantage does this give to players pistol whipping NPCs? This is a bug, not an exploit. Oh, Wait a minute. I think i know what this refers too! Players were melee attacking enemy NPC while doing the Rooftop Rumble mission and you could clear out the entire garage just bashing them with your rifle. The way this “exploit” is phrased makes it sound like this happens in free mode, attacking unarmed civilian NPCs.

 

April 18, 2014

Xbox 360s are high end devices

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 8:23 pm

I recently contacted Microsoft Support regarding a billing issue, nothing important nor anything serious, but while i was waiting for my Xbox 360 to reboot I figured I’d ask the support guy a question as to why my 360’s internet speeds are so much slower than what i can pull from any of my PC, laptops, or even my tablet. I couldn’t cut and paste the Q&A so I made a screenshot.

 

Epic LOLs

Epic LOLs

According to him an 8 year old $200 console is more “High End” than my +$2500 PC that’s less than a year old? OH really? The fucking MOTHERBOARD I got for it costs more than an Xbox 360 for fucks sake. For the sake of the argument lets assume he is correct. If a 360 is more high end than my PC, then why is it getting SLOWER SPEEDS than any other of my internet connected devices which are all connected to the my SAME router (wired and wifi) and using the SAME web site to test internet speeds? Wouldn’t it be getting FASTER speeds if my 360 was so “high end?”

An Xbox 360 has a PowerPC three-core 64bit CPU, which even APPLE abandoned on the Mac line some years ago since PowerPC chips are DOG ass slow, only supporting PC100 SRAM from 15 years ago. As for the RAM the 360 (and the PS3) only have 512mb of RAM. Yes a half a Gig of RAM, which seems unheard of now a-days. Most PCs come with a BARE minimum of 4gb, EIGHT TIMES that of these old consoles. My PC has 16GB of DDR3 1600 RAM in QUAD CHANNEL mode. I’m sure the 360’s RAM is still in single channel mode, running at 100mhz like I used too back in the Pentium II days in the late 90s.

Note how the tech talked about ports.  This could mean two different things, internet port numbers (80 for web, 995 for POP3 email) or likely he was referring to the physical ports on the console. Ethernet ports, and USB ports. First of all the 360 doesn’t even have gigabit Ethernet, also the USB ports are all v2.0. While my PC has Gigabit Ethernet and USB 3.0.  So in this situation the ports the 360 has are “very basic and common” compared to the majority of PCs that have been built in the past 10 years. Not exactly what this support guy believes.

If he’s referring to internet ports, this is the only part that makes SOME sense since the Xbox Live works on a set of ports 88 (UDP), 3074 (UDP and TCP), 53 (UDP and TCP), 1863 (UDP and TCP), and 80 (TCP). So my ISP or Microsoft/XBL could be throttling that.  However, port 80 is the default port for nearly ALL web traffic. There would be no reason the throttle that. The speed tests I used is a HTML5 based website at  http://www.bandwidthplace.com/ This speed test works on all devices with a modern Web browser, which the Xbox 360 has with Internet Explorer. Since it’s on the WEB it’s only pulling data on port 80, NOT the ports used for Xbox Live, but I get much slower speeds from this site on my 360, compared to all my other devices I have in my home.

Unless all web traffic is redirected to Microsoft and then goes out to the web, and back around. If that was the case my IP address would be redirected. Sites like www.ipchicken.com would see a different IP than what my ISP gives me, so that can’t be the case.

So regardless as to what this Microsoft support guy said, it’s obvious to me that the 360 throttles it’s own bandwidth. We all know the 360 hardware is EXTREMELY low end compared to any modern PC. Even the new XBox One is STILL a low-end PC with laptop hardware. However that can’t be why it performs in internet speed tests so SLOWLY.  Despite what this support guy wants you to believe, I can easily pull 20mb speed tests on a 15 yearold PC running Windows 98 which would technically be inferior to an Xbox 360.

Also side note, No Agenda folks will get a laugh at the first response to my question the support tech gave me. Which really proves Adam Curry is right that when people reply to a question like that, they are about to lie to you. Wish he’d unblock me from Twitter. :/

 

April 8, 2014

GTA Online 1.12 title update!

Filed under: GTAV Online — Tags: , , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 10:31 am

Yes it’s finally live! No longer will you see griefing trolls in creator mode while in a freeroam session. No more God-mode assholes who run around invisible and invulnerable while they drop objects all over the place boxing in players. Loading transition times seem smoother and faster now. Even when spectating other players it no longer takes forever to switch from one player to another player who is across the map. It’s still not instant, but seems to take less than 10 seconds.

One weird bug I found just last night where you try to buzz into your friend’s garage and you get stuck. You cant move, cant move your camera view, you have no radar map, no UI, cant use your phone, and your character is invincible to any damage. At most you can get hit by vehicles and ragdoll all over the place but you still can’t die. It was fun seeing my friend playing virtual kick-the-can down the street with my character but was an annoying bug. The only thing i could do is bring up the Start menu and join another session to get out of it.

All the car exploits have been fixed from copying personal vehicles to bringing in vehicles from story mode. I’ve also read in the past that are de-ranking players who have extremely high ranks who got it from the DNS redirect exploits. I have been seeing a lot of rank 1 players running around in freemode, whom are well dressed, most of them with the high end weapons you can’t get until rank 70. Plus normally any new characters coming into the game will be rank 3 after they do all the tutorial stuff before they enter a public freeroam session. That said I’m still seeing a lot of high ranked players over 500, but everyone knows past 120 is meaningless for the time being.

All the details of what was changed and fixed is listed here.

There are still some remaining gameplay issues that still annoy me. The NPCs still call you and harass you for not doing a job. Simon still sends you a list of cars he wants you to jack and you’ll still get 2-star wanted level when you carjack a Siemon vehicle when you have no intention to take it in for him. This NPC harassment should go away once you’re actually done these jobs a few times (or several), or at least it stops once you’re past a high rank like past 75. The game DOES keep track of what jobs you’ve done already.

On the positive note they did give Lester a new ability you can request for. For $5000 you can have the police ignore your criminal activity and you won’t get a wanted level. I haven’t tried this yet, so i don’t know how long it lasts (my guess is 1 minute) and what limitations there are. For example if i shoot a cop with this function enabled, will i still get a 3-star wanted level? Should be fun to test out. I did notice the 1st time I got on after the TU that players were VERY VERY aggressive towards me; likely due to this feature being turned on. I also assume that there are a lot more players online today now that this update is out, and all the griefing and god-power exploits are removed.

Also the jobs list has been fixed, I can now bring up “Rooftop Rumble” whenever I want too on my higher rank character. I still wanna know when/if/how we can open the 3rd character slot so I can start with a new character?

« Newer PostsOlder Posts »

Blog at WordPress.com.