Hugsies Blog!

July 21, 2015

WTF is with Windows updates?

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 11:45 am

After I upgraded my PC, i noticed some issues with my boot times and other odd behaviors. I tried to clear up space on my SSD, and cleaned up registry and other bitrott that might be present but the problems persisted. I didn’t really want to do a clean install of Win8.1 since windows 10 was just a week away. But i chose to go ahead do a clean install. Zapped everything off my HDD and installed win8.1 clean.

Installing win8.1 went off with out any issues, and the problems i had in the past were gone. I did have issues with Input Director, which is an app that lets me use two (or more) PCs using the same mouse and keyboard. So with out finding a fix for ID, i found “Mouse Without Borders” which you can find at Microsoft’s download site, and it does everything i need it to do, and it even lets me alt-tab on the slave PC, and I no longer need a mouse connected to the slave PC to have a mouse cursor appear.

So now I’m dealing with endless windows updates, which I apparently need all of them in order to get the Windows 10 free update. At first it appeared that I only needed a handful of updates to download and install. After installing those and rebooting, then over 200 more appeared on the update list out of no where. WHY does Microsoft do this? You get an old update that is just going to be updated over.  Why can’t they reconcile all of these updates together? Sure is a waste of bandwidth downloading an update you don’t need when 20 more updates supersede it.

July 11, 2015

Updating my Rig

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 2:26 am

I’m going to be updating my PC, still keeping the same CPU, PSU, Mobo, and RAM but upgrading nearly everything else. Here’s the new tentative list as most haven’t shipped yet.

May 2, 2015

Open letter to Rockstar regarding GTA Online on PC.

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 8:52 am

Every day I see the popups saying I have this 5% discount since I started playing GTA Online on PC, but when I visit Ammu-Nation, or a convenience store, I still pay full price. Sticky Bombs are $500, Proximity bombs are still $1000. P’s and Q’s are $2 no discount at all. This might be due to my character being imported from the Xbox One, which was also imported from the Xbox 360. My friends say the discount seems to be working for them, but they started at Rank 1, since they didn’t transfer their online characters from consoles.

The censorship in text chat is abhorrent, there needs to be a toggle to turn this off. To many benign non-obscene words get censored and most conversations are incomprehensible since common words like “night” are changed to “*****”.  I can’t even name my own outfits the way I want them since your blacklisted words is ridiculous. Why IS there any censorship in a game where you hear nothing BUT expletives, with crudeness along with all the violent behaviors? I can’t even say “rockstar” in chat for fucks sake!

Ordering or getting cars off the street duplicate themselves in garages with extra empty spaces. But some times this can lead to vehicle losses if you have your personal vehicle out side while you bring in a new vehicle.

When ordering a vehicle off one the websites, and you select which garage, the message saying it has been delivered shows it was delivered to a different garage than the one you chose, but the vehicle will end up in the garage you had chosen.

When I take a car from one of my unattached garages drive it into my garage WITH an attached apartment, and swap cars since it’s full, and then go to the elevator to go into my apt, I’m teleported to the other garage that the car came from, rather than going up into my apartment.

Street cars that I sell to Los Santos Customs doesn’t appear in my “on hand” money, I assume it’s going directly into the bank but half the time I can’t tell, and the transaction history doesn’t seem to list every transaction and it’s FAR TOO SHORT. I can fill up the history buying loads of snacks from a convenience store.

GTA online has a 15 minute time out for inactivity, why is the time out reduced to 60 seconds when I’m on another window to check something quickly? That isn’t enough time and isn’t fair. Hell i’ve been kicked off several times now while writing this email. >_<

If I am in my own invite only session, and I time out and get kicked offline. Pressing (A or Enter) to confirm that message, brings me back to a public session instead of an invite-only session I was already in.

Why can’t I choose to start a private invite only, crew, or friends only session when I’m already in a public session?  Why am I forced to switch to story mode just to just to start one of those?

There is a strange animation behavior when getting into my Carbonizzare when the top is already down. My character will sink into the floor, or ground as it gets into the vehicle. When in First Person mode, sometimes my character is unable to get into the vehicle due to this weird animation.

I am unable to get rid of weapons I don’t need anymore. I have countless pistols and rifles I never use and it clutters up my weapon wheel. If i drop them and let someone else pick them up, or just leave them on the ground, they return into  my weapons wheel when I transition on to another session or job.

Why can’t I set a default of weapons in my weapon wheel? For instance I like the assault shotgun but the shotgun slot always defaults to the pump action shotgun. Plus I can’t get rid of the Pump action shotgun since it always returns to my inventory after I’ve change session or jobs.

— Hugsie

February 20, 2015

VMware player sucks

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 11:41 am

For years I’ve been using VMWare player and I’ve always had problems with USB devices plugged into the VM working half the time, constantly unplugging them and plugging it back in so the USB device is seen by the VM OS.

The biggest and most consistent problem I’ve had is input stalls. The VM will run fine, but any INPUT into the VM’s window is ignored. Its as if the VM is stuck in some kind of loop that it ignores any mouse or clicking, and then all that input is executed all at once once it “wakes up” out of that loop. It’s so fucking frusrating, since i can see the software running DOing stuff but I cant click on anything!  And it’s not the VM that’s buggered out I can’t even control VMware at all.

The mouse cursor is always a pointing finger, and never becomes an arrow cursor. I cant interact with the VM let aloine with VMware it self. It won’t even let me click the [X] button to close the app. Any popups that VMWare brings up are unclickable since my cursor is always a pointing finger. It will some times recover it self and operate normal, but then it just goes right back into this pointing-finger mouse cursor bullshit.

It’s been doing this to me for years, over serveral version of VMware player, and with diffrent host and VM operating systems. Since using Windows 7 (host) runing Windowes XP in the VM it’s been flakey like this. I’ve since moved onto Windows 8/8.1 (host) and running Linux and Wiundows 7 or Vista in the VM and it STILL DOES THIS.

The system I’m running it on is an old Core 2 Quad i9300 64bit, with Windows 8.1. This is actually my secondary PC that has no keyboard (it has a mouse since Win8 won’t show a mouse) with its own monitor, and I use Input Director from my main PC to control both PCs.

I’m fed up with VMWare.

December 13, 2014

My Xbox 360 is alive! No thanks to Microsoft! :p

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 12:31 am

My old original eight year old 360 power supply brick died, and I’ve been having a hard time finding a replacement for it. I tried to order one off Amazon but it turned out to be a shitty Chinese knockoff that over heated and burned it self out after 4 hours of use. I was able to get my money back since Amazon has a painless return policy.

Then I ordered one directly from Microsoft’s support web page, but it’s been two weeks and they still haven’t shipped me a new power supply, nor informed me about what’s taking so long. They did state that a new unit will ship within 10 working days (i.e. 2 full weeks) and this Friday marks the 10th working day. Microsoft took my money immediately after I ordered it, but i have nothing to show for it. I guess i’ll have to call Microsoft/Xbox support directly and find out what the deal is. It’s likely they don’t have any of the old sliver-tip 203w power bricks in stock since they are SO OLD.  Hell I’ve been so loyal to Xbox they should just send me a NEW 360.

I had been wondering if a PC PSU can be used to power a Xbox 360. The pin outs for a 360 power is simply 12v DC, ground, 5v standby, and a power on signal. Which is EXACTLY what a PC PSU has. I read up on many websites where they simply took the power connector and connected it to a 4pin molex power connector which supplies 5v, 12v and ground.

So by simply wiring all three 12v wires to the one on the molex (yellow wires), all the ground wires to the two ground wires on the molex (black wires), and the 5v to the 5v standby (Red wires), and bingo, you have a power supply cable that works as long as you have a PSU with significant wattage. Which even the oldest PSUs will supply minimum of 250watts which is plenty for the older Xenon 360’s that require 203 watts. All newer 360s require much less wattage, but you can use old 203 watt power bricks with all 360s, even with the “S” and “E” versions of the 360 with the proper power adapter for it.

The problem is that you have to short the power-on to ground and have the PSU on before the 360. Ideally you’ll want to rig the 360’s v5-standby and Power-ON wires to the matching wires on the PSU’s 20pin motherboard power connector. This way when you power the 360, the PSU will also fire up and when you shut down the 360, do does the PSU.

Unfortunately I don’t have a spare PSU that I can use for my 360. The spare one I do have is faulty, and doesn’t work. However my primary PC I use does have an overpowered 750w PSU which is WAY too much for the hardware I have in my PC. So I re-wired my 360 power cable to a 4pin molex as i described earlier, pulled out a molex power from my PC which i don’t even use, and bingo my 360 is alive again! \o/

So my beastly PSU is now running both my PC and my 360, which is not exactly ideal. I have noticed that the yellow 12v wire from my PSU does get hot, since it’s a single 12v rail that’s powering three 12v rails inside my 360. That’s a lot of current for a single wire to feed three 12v wires.  Ideally I should connect at least 3 different 12volt rails from the PSU to the 360 power connector to help this issue.

Oddly inside the 360 power cable, along with a red and blue (5v SB and power-on) there are 3 yellow, and 3 black. But there’s also a set of thinner yellow and black wires. That’s more wires than there are pins in the 360 connector, even when including the ground shield. Right now i have all 4 yellow wires connected to the single yellow 12v rail, and the same with all the black wires, but at least molex connectors have two black ground wires.

UPDATE (week later): Microsoft finally did send me a new power supply brick, it lacks a ground connection, even though the wall plug has a ground, but there is no 3rd ground prong on the end that connects to the power brick. But at least my 360 is running on it’s own. Oddly enough 2 weeks later ANOTHER power brick was delivered unexpectedly. Geez Microsoft get your shit together.

November 18, 2014

Satechi Edge Gaming mouse review

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 10:00 am

The mouse it self is quite good looking, and it’s not over riddled with a mass of buttons like some gaming mice have now. The mouse wheel and the logo on the front are illuminated. The font logo slowly dims and becomes brighter as if it’s “breathing.”  Also the color changes from Green, Blue, Red, and Purple (in that order) which indicate which DPI setting it’s at. But no yellow?

The mouse is smaller than I’m used too and it’s a lot more shallower in my hand and lighter than my old Logitech Performance MX which took some some getting used to. It also comes with a low profile USB dongle that’s very tiny, exactly like the kind used with Logitech mice and keyboards. However it did not come with an extension USB cable so you can place the wireless dongle closer to your mouse if your PC is located far from your desktop or behind something that would block the signal.

Inside the nice retail packaging box was the mouse it self, the small tiny USB dongle, and a set of two generic AA batteries, a small manual, BUT NO CD with drivers nor software. I checked the Satechi website to see if they had drivers or some sort of software bundle, but there was nothing. No software to customize the mouse at all. Very unheard of to have a “gaming” mouse with no customization options.

The only way to “customize” it is with two small switching on the underside of the mouse, where you can change the mouses polling rate, and “mode,” Often I can’t tell what “mode” this mouse is is, it’s either in a normal “gaming” mode or a useless “video” mode. If it’s in the wrong mode, the forward and back buttons by your thumb while gaming (FPS) will make your character turn slowly left or right as if I was pressing the left/right keys on my keyboard.  This “Video Mode” is intended for multi-media use for music and videos, however I don’t know what players supports this mouse functionality. after all it COMES WITH NO SOFTWARE. So just leave the mouse in “gaming” mode so it functions as you’d expect too, even if you’re not a gamer.

I can see any difference when using 250hz or 500hz polling rate. Every time I lift the mouse to change the switches I’m blinded by that super bright LED. The barely-readable labels for the switches that show “250” and “500” also has a “treble clef” symbol which is supposed to be “video” mode. Isn’t a treble clef a musical reference?

The little auto-double click button is useless, what lazy gamer needs that? If it’s a gamer mouse it would be more useful it if was a “turbo” button that rapid-fires left-clicks while you hold it down, not a silly double click.

The mouse wheel doesn’t support left-right scrolling. Even though the mouse wheel moves left and right, and FEELS like it’s tiling left and right, it’s really not doing anything, and at most you’re clicking the middle mouse button. Middle mouse button clicking is FAR TOO EASY to accidentally click when you’re just trying to flick the scroll wheel up or down. A lot oft he time I find my self in smooth-scroll mode since I accidentally clicked the middle mouse button wheel while on a webpage.

Middle mouse button clicking in some apps (Chrome, and Thunderbird) opens new tab of whatever it is you middle-clicked but the tabs appear UNDER whatever the mouse is under, and you don’t really notice them coming up. Since it’s so easy to accidentally hit middle-mouse when trying to scroll, I end up with loads of tabs I didn’t want to open.

When the mouse goes dormant after no use, moving the mouse doesn’t reactivate it like most mice do. You have to click a mouse button for it to wake up again. Which might activate something on screen since the mouse click is sent to the PC, and depending where your mouse cursor is (if it’s visible) it may have undesirable effects.

For a mouse with two AA batteries, it sure is light. The batteries that come with it are typical cheapo non-brand you’ve never heard of, and are light weight as if they are dead batteries. If you install a set of real proper batteries like Duracell, or Energizer, it does give it more heft than the batteries it comes with. However it is nice it comes with batteries.

The booklet is beautiful, and  well made with thick card stock, but it’s only 4 pages. It’s like they spent too much money on this little booklet when they could have made this mouse a little better. There is a noticeable error in the booklet’s illustration showing you where everything is. The part labeled [7] is the button that toggles though the four different DPI setting for gaming mode. In “video” mode it toggles between minimizing all your windows. At the bottom shows the corresponding number for the part on the illustration. For some reason button [7] is listed twice, where it’s supposed to be describing what buttons [5] and [6] do.

The instructions indicate that before installing the batteries you need to pull out the mini USB dongle that you connect to your PC so you can use the mouse. The way my mouse was package the USB dongle was already out of the mouse and in it’s special little spot molded in plastic under the mouse next to the batteries. I guess this will be useful if you’re taking the mouse with on a trip and stash the dongle where you won’t lose it, However the dongle extremely tiny like the ones for Logtitech,  It’s meant to be just left on your PC or laptop since it’s so small it won’t break off or fall out for sticking out.  I would rather have a set of weights I could put in that spot inside the mouse to beef it up.

Changing DPI on the fly is useful for a gamer, but 4 different settings? A gamer only needs two. One for normal movement and looking around, and a lowered DPI for zooming and sniping. But this has 4 different DPI settings that you can NOT customize (since there is no software) and you have to cycle though all of them to get back to the DPI setting you want when want to change back. That takes way too much time when you’re gaming.

One thing I noticed when I first plugged it in, the mouse didn’t feel right. This was likely due to having just disconnecting my old mouse and putting this new one in and didn’t restart my PC. After rebooting the PC the mouse felt much more “normal” to me.

When this product was first announced last October, it was toted as a cheap $20 “gamer” mouse, but it actually sells on Amazon and Satechi’s website for $30 (which is now sold out). Honestly the mouse is really worth $20. The extra $10 must be for it’s over done heavy card stock glossy manual and the retail box.  If you can find this mouse with out it’s useless packaging and manuals, it is worth $20.

[Update: 11/21/14]
After using it for a few weeks the batteries that were included started to die off. The mouse would stop moving the mouse cursor on screen, but the scroll wheel and mouse buttons still worked. For a mouse that totes a TWO YEAR battery life, turns out to only last Two weeks. I just swapped the batteries out for a new set and lets see if these actually last, but if I have to keep swapping battles out every 2-3 weeks, while they advertise 2 or 3 year battery life will really hurt their image.

[Update 12/6/14]
I’ve had this mouse for a couple months now, and the claim for 36 month battery life is a complete lie. it’s only 3 years on STANDBY time which is entirely meaningless since that is the typical lifespan if any alkaline battery that’s not in use. Whats worse is this mouse gives you no indication on how much power is left in the batteries, nor a warning when they are about to die. When it does die the mouse just behaves weird. The mouse stops tracking but the scroll wheel and mouse buttons keep working. It doesn’t come with a charge cable if you’re using rechargeable batteries, in fact it’s unable to charge batteries, so if you wanna use rechargeables, you’ll need a separate charger.

So how many lies has Satechi claimed about this mouse now so far?

$20 MSRP? lie
36 month battery life? lie
250 and 500hz polling rate? cant tell the difference.
No software to configure the mouse
no programability
No custom colors
No Drivers
No USB extension cable to re-locate the wireless dongle
No battery life indicator
No warning when the batteries are about to die
No battery charging capabilities

Yet the put extra money and effort into it’s packaging and it’s useless 4 page manual with has a few typos in it which could had been used to make this mouse better.

I’m extremely disappointed with this mouse. This would be a better mouse if it was just a wired mouse since it consumes battery power in less than a week, making the batteries that come with it completely useless.

Asus STRIX GTX 980 \o/

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 8:33 am

It’s finally here!

As a long long time user of Second Life, if you’re still using a video card with only 1GB (or less) you seriously need to upgrade to something with more. When I pre-ordered my GTX 980, I installed bench-marking software and monitoring tools that helped me better understand the hardware I have before my GTX 980 arrived.

Using GPU-Z and running one instance of Firestorm on SL, the viewer and the OS overhead was using about 800mb of my  old video card’s VRAM, out it’s 1GB of VDDR5 memory. So if you were using an older 512mb video card, your performance was already suffering just using one instance of an SL viewer.  I then realized that this is why when I run a second instance of Firestorm, that I had to minimize one of them (or cam out into the void so nothing renders) in order for the viewer that has focus not to bog down it’s frame rates.

When my new video card arrived, it has 4GB of VDDR5 RAM, and I quickly fired up FOUR instance of Firestorm, logged in four ALTs and none of the viewers had any framerate issues (except for when it doesn’t have focus FPS drops, which is meant to do that) but there was no drop in framerate with the viewer that currently was in focus. I could alt-tab to another viewer and no loss in quality. AND i had everything set to ULTRA settings.

So while getting a GTX 980 is overkill for Second Life, getting a video card with 2GB VRAM or more IS advisable if you’re using multiple alts on SL at the same time. So something like a GTX 750 ti which has 2GB of VRAM ($160) would be useful over any old videocard that only has 1GB.

November 16, 2014

The elusive ASUS STRIX GTX 980 and Amazon

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 3:28 am

Amazon never had any ASUS STRIX GTX 980 in stock since mid October. They started pre-orders around October 30th, which is when I made my pre-order. Nvidia started a new free game promotion when you purchase a GTX 980 card the following week. Amazon is participating in this promotion.

Since the promotion started after I made my pre-order, I asked customer service if my order will qualify for this promotion, since I technically hadn’t bought it yet since it hasn’t shipped yet, nor was I billed yet. They said it wasn’t because I made the order (a PRE order) on the 30th outside of the promotional period. I was TOLD by Amazon customer support I had the option to cancel my original order and re-pre-order it again to qualify for the free game. They offered free 1 day shipping as compensation. So reluctantly that’s what I did on November 8th.

Now a week passes and my video card has finally shipped! (yay!) Only after waiting over TWO WEEKS since my original October 30th PRE-order, but I didn’t get my free game code. I asked Amazon customer support AGAIN about this and they simply said it wasn’t apart of the promotion simply because the item listed on amazon isn’t marked with that promotion. WTF?

This is bullshit. Amazon is participating in this promotion, I bought the video card FROM amazon, BILLED by amazon on November 13th. Nvidia lists Amazon as one of the vendors participating in this promotion. I almost bought an eVGA GTX 980 card because they were in stock, and I was getting tired of waiting. Granted the STRIX GTX 980 didn’t display this promotion in it’s item listing but that’s ONLY because they never had this video card in stock for the past four weeks, long BEFORE the promotion started. You could only pre-order it. Even now it’s still NOT not in stock, but now you CAN’T pre-order it anymore. All Amazon shows now is a 3rd party store selling the card WAY OVER PRICED.

The only compensation they gave me was free 1 day shipping, but it shipped on a FRIDAY I’m not going to get it till MONDAY. They offered this only if I canceled and re-ordered it so i could get my free game, but that was all for nothing.. What a waste of fucking time dealing with Amazon customer support for something I clearly qualify for but I do not due to some stupid technicality. Even my “compensation” wasn’t even worth the time and hassle.

TOTAL BULLSHIT AMAZON! I think i’ll stick with NewEgg when comes to PC hardware purchases, but keep buying mundane commodities like toilet paper from Amazon.

June 18, 2014

GTA online 1.14

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , — Hugsie @ 6:29 am

Still no heists as it has been delayed until further notice, with “nextgen/PC” releases only four short months away.  There really isn’t anything else to say about this, that hasn’t already been said in the past 8 months. So I will not add to the noise about heists.

1.14 introduces another content package called “I’m not a Hispter” which is loaded with hipster-themed stuff. From smart cars, post modern ironic tshirts, and douhebaggery hairstyles. The change log lists all kinds of fixes and changes that either don’t work (for me) or they fixed something in the most bullshit way possible. Let me highlight some and comment on them.

  • Fixed an exploit where players were able to avoid paying insurance and Bad Sport rating increases

This was done simply by setting off sticky bombs left outside while you were indoors.  I used to do this on occasion since it was fun looking out the window of my home blowing people up. I didn’t realize I wasn’t getting a “bad player” rating and not paying any insurance fees.  I just did it since it was fun and seemed VERY “GTA-esque” since you kill the iFruit CEO from the comfort of your living room using a remote bomb in Story Mode (spoilers!)  So rather than fixing the obvious by GIVING the player a bad sports rating and making them pay the insurance fees, they instead just remove (de-spawn) the sticky bombs you planted outside when you go indoors. LAME!

  • When a player dies, they now have a chance to detonate any Sticky Bombs they had placed. They must be detonated as soon as the wasted screen appears or they will be deleted.

This doesn’t work. I don’t know if I’m waiting too long or whatever, but if i mash the left-Dpad the moment I’m “wasted” my stickies do not go off.  Maybe it’s because I’m in a vehicle when I get wasted? Or is it not left Dpad to set them off? Does it only work when you’re killed by a player, or by an npc?

  • Non-personal vehicles will now spawn near the player once they have completed a Mission.

This is a weird one. Every time I finish rooftop rumble but as a dead player, I end up miles away at the north east side of the map, by some country house with a pumpkin garden in the back.  I’m spawned STANDING inside my vehicle, and there’s a gang attack at that house so if I don’t leave soon I get gunned down.

  • Player names are now shown on Celebration Screens.

THIS IS awesome but this should also appear when you’re looking at the large map from the Start menu.

  • Fixed an issue where character stats could increase when using the Friend Spectate option.

Spectating friends was added in the 1.13 update, but this has NEVER appeared when looking at my friends list (in GTA online) and I still don’t see this option in 1.14. Am I looking in the wrong place for this or what?

  • Fixed an exploit where players could launch cars into the air by driving into gates.

This was listed under “exploits” as if doing this is as bad as money glitching, and RP glitching. Rockstar stated some months ago that they won’t be fixing silly glitches like this since it doesn’t effect anyone in a negative way, it doesn’t give the player any advantage, nor does it effect Rockstar monetarily, as money glitching does. I’m really bothered they fixed something so benign as this, and even MORE upset they listed it as an “exploit.”  It’s like Rockstar can’t get anything strait.. they say one thing and months later change it (ahem heists coming out in Spring)

Why didn’t they fix the wall breaches where you can clip your character INSIDE buildings and under bridges and attack and kill everything, including other players, and be virtually immune to cops and other players?

  • Fixed an exploit where players could repeat the same Bounty multiple times.

According to some new “glitches” posted on Youtube, this can still happen. Matter of fact it seems half the things that occur in GTA online R* claims they “fixed” isn’t fixed.

  • Fixed an exploit where NPCs would not react when nearby NPCs were being pistol-whipped.

How was this an exploit? What advantage does this give to players pistol whipping NPCs? This is a bug, not an exploit. Oh, Wait a minute. I think i know what this refers too! Players were melee attacking enemy NPC while doing the Rooftop Rumble mission and you could clear out the entire garage just bashing them with your rifle. The way this “exploit” is phrased makes it sound like this happens in free mode, attacking unarmed civilian NPCs.


April 18, 2014

Xbox 360s are high end devices

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Hugsie @ 8:23 pm

I recently contacted Microsoft Support regarding a billing issue, nothing important nor anything serious, but while i was waiting for my Xbox 360 to reboot I figured I’d ask the support guy a question as to why my 360’s internet speeds are so much slower than what i can pull from any of my PC, laptops, or even my tablet. I couldn’t cut and paste the Q&A so I made a screenshot.


Epic LOLs

Epic LOLs

According to him an 8 year old $200 console is more “High End” than my +$2500 PC that’s less than a year old? OH really? The fucking MOTHERBOARD I got for it costs more than an Xbox 360 for fucks sake. For the sake of the argument lets assume he is correct. If a 360 is more high end than my PC, then why is it getting SLOWER SPEEDS than any other of my internet connected devices which are all connected to the my SAME router (wired and wifi) and using the SAME web site to test internet speeds? Wouldn’t it be getting FASTER speeds if my 360 was so “high end?”

An Xbox 360 has a PowerPC three-core 64bit CPU, which even APPLE abandoned on the Mac line some years ago since PowerPC chips are DOG ass slow, only supporting PC100 SRAM from 15 years ago. As for the RAM the 360 (and the PS3) only have 512mb of RAM. Yes a half a Gig of RAM, which seems unheard of now a-days. Most PCs come with a BARE minimum of 4gb, EIGHT TIMES that of these old consoles. My PC has 16GB of DDR3 1600 RAM in QUAD CHANNEL mode. I’m sure the 360’s RAM is still in single channel mode, running at 100mhz like I used too back in the Pentium II days in the late 90s.

Note how the tech talked about ports.  This could mean two different things, internet port numbers (80 for web, 995 for POP3 email) or likely he was referring to the physical ports on the console. Ethernet ports, and USB ports. First of all the 360 doesn’t even have gigabit Ethernet, also the USB ports are all v2.0. While my PC has Gigabit Ethernet and USB 3.0.  So in this situation the ports the 360 has are “very basic and common” compared to the majority of PCs that have been built in the past 10 years. Not exactly what this support guy believes.

If he’s referring to internet ports, this is the only part that makes SOME sense since the Xbox Live works on a set of ports 88 (UDP), 3074 (UDP and TCP), 53 (UDP and TCP), 1863 (UDP and TCP), and 80 (TCP). So my ISP or Microsoft/XBL could be throttling that.  However, port 80 is the default port for nearly ALL web traffic. There would be no reason the throttle that. The speed tests I used is a HTML5 based website at This speed test works on all devices with a modern Web browser, which the Xbox 360 has with Internet Explorer. Since it’s on the WEB it’s only pulling data on port 80, NOT the ports used for Xbox Live, but I get much slower speeds from this site on my 360, compared to all my other devices I have in my home.

Unless all web traffic is redirected to Microsoft and then goes out to the web, and back around. If that was the case my IP address would be redirected. Sites like would see a different IP than what my ISP gives me, so that can’t be the case.

So regardless as to what this Microsoft support guy said, it’s obvious to me that the 360 throttles it’s own bandwidth. We all know the 360 hardware is EXTREMELY low end compared to any modern PC. Even the new XBox One is STILL a low-end PC with laptop hardware. However that can’t be why it performs in internet speed tests so SLOWLY.  Despite what this support guy wants you to believe, I can easily pull 20mb speed tests on a 15 yearold PC running Windows 98 which would technically be inferior to an Xbox 360.

Also side note, No Agenda folks will get a laugh at the first response to my question the support tech gave me. Which really proves Adam Curry is right that when people reply to a question like that, they are about to lie to you. Wish he’d unblock me from Twitter. :/


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