Hugsies Blog!

December 13, 2014

My Xbox 360 is alive! No thanks to Microsoft! :p

Filed under: Uncategorized — Hugsie @ 12:31 am

My old original eight year old 360 power supply brick died, and I’ve been having a hard time finding a replacement for it. I tried to order one off Amazon but it turned out to be a shitty Chinese knockoff that over heated and burned it self out after 4 hours of use. I was able to get my money back since Amazon has a painless return policy.

Then I ordered one directly from Microsoft’s support web page, but it’s been two weeks and they still haven’t shipped me a new power supply, nor informed me about what’s taking so long. They did state that a new unit will ship within 10 working days (i.e. 2 full weeks) and this Friday marks the 10th working day. Microsoft took my money immediately after I ordered it, but i have nothing to show for it. I guess i’ll have to call Microsoft/Xbox support directly and find out what the deal is. It’s likely they don’t have any of the old sliver-tip 203w power bricks in stock since they are SO OLD.  Hell I’ve been so loyal to Xbox they should just send me a NEW 360.

I had been wondering if a PC PSU can be used to power a Xbox 360. The pin outs for a 360 power is simply 12v DC, ground, 5v standby, and a power on signal. Which is EXACTLY what a PC PSU has. I read up on many websites where they simply took the power connector and connected it to a 4pin molex power connector which supplies 5v, 12v and ground.

So by simply wiring all three 12v wires to the one on the molex (yellow wires), all the ground wires to the two ground wires on the molex (black wires), and the 5v to the 5v standby (Red wires), and bingo, you have a power supply cable that works as long as you have a PSU with significant wattage. Which even the oldest PSUs will supply minimum of 250watts which is plenty for the older Xenon 360’s that require 203 watts. All newer 360s require much less wattage, but you can use old 203 watt power bricks with all 360s, even with the “S” and “E” versions of the 360 with the proper power adapter for it.

The problem is that you have to short the power-on to ground and have the PSU on before the 360. Ideally you’ll want to rig the 360’s v5-standby and Power-ON wires to the matching wires on the PSU’s 20pin motherboard power connector. This way when you power the 360, the PSU will also fire up and when you shut down the 360, do does the PSU.

Unfortunately I don’t have a spare PSU that I can use for my 360. The spare one I do have is faulty, and doesn’t work. However my primary PC I use does have an overpowered 750w PSU which is WAY too much for the hardware I have in my PC. So I re-wired my 360 power cable to a 4pin molex as i described earlier, pulled out a molex power from my PC which i don’t even use, and bingo my 360 is alive again! \o/

So my beastly PSU is now running both my PC and my 360, which is not exactly ideal. I have noticed that the yellow 12v wire from my PSU does get hot, since it’s a single 12v rail that’s powering three 12v rails inside my 360. That’s a lot of current for a single wire to feed three 12v wires.  Ideally I should connect at least 3 different 12volt rails from the PSU to the 360 power connector to help this issue.

Oddly inside the 360 power cable, along with a red and blue (5v SB and power-on) there are 3 yellow, and 3 black. But there’s also a set of thinner yellow and black wires. That’s more wires than there are pins in the 360 connector, even when including the ground shield. Right now i have all 4 yellow wires connected to the single yellow 12v rail, and the same with all the black wires, but at least molex connectors have two black ground wires.

UPDATE (week later): Microsoft finally did send me a new power supply brick, it lacks a ground connection, even though the wall plug has a ground, but there is no 3rd ground prong on the end that connects to the power brick. But at least my 360 is running on it’s own. Oddly enough 2 weeks later ANOTHER power brick was delivered unexpectedly. Geez Microsoft get your shit together.

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